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Yohan Lardy Moulin-A-Vent ‘Les Michelons’ 2016
 

$18.69 btl. | $98.75 ½ case ($16.46) reg. $22.00
 

93 points, Vinous

 

Really good Beaujolais is my gateway wine to Spring; fresh, fragrant, fruit-driven, lithe and lovely. Dollar for dollar a superior value compared to an equivalent quality in Pinot Noir, this wine is perfect with roast poultry, salmon or pork, as well as all manner of root vegetables and mushroom dishes.

Historically, the Gamay grape has been knocked around a bit. In 1395 the Duke of Burgundy ordered that all Gamay vines be uprooted by the following Easter for being "a very bad and disloyal plant", due in part to the variety occupying land that could be used for the more "elegant" Pinot noir. This edict served to push the plant out of Burgundy, and it found its way to a friendlier home to the south in Beaujolais, an area closer to Lyon than to Beaune.

The Beaujolais Nouveau thing hasn’t done any favors for the region either. It has set people’s expectations on the low side of the potential meter. As such, Cru Beaujolais (ten specific areas within the broader AOC) is a dramatically underpriced category with a tremendous upside for the price conscious consumer. And in Moulin-a-Vent we have an area that produces one of the most complex and full-bodied expressions of the Gamay grape, one that traditionally can cellar for four to ten years or more. This is the “King of the Crus” when it comes to body, ageability, and tannic structure. There is an elevated level of manganese in the soil in this area that serves to dramatically reduce the yields of the Gamay, thereby making wine from Moulin-à-Vent one of the most powerful examples of Beaujolais.

 

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Yohan Lardy started his estate with two hectares of vines planted in 1911 and 1950 in the heights of the Moulin-a-Vent appellation in a prestigious plot called "Les Michelons". The soil is very thin and poor, ideal for torturing great character from the grape, and high in the manganese mentioned earlier. All the grapes are hand harvested and are fermented on the native yeasts without the use of sulfites. The wine is then aged for at least ten months in Burgundy barrels prior to bottling.

93 points, Vinous:

“Bright violet. Highly perfumed aromas of fresh dark berries, candied licorice, lavender and smoky minerals. Expansive black raspberry, cherry liqueur and spicecake flavors show very good clarity and depth and pick up a spicy quality with air. Finishes juicy, sweet and very long, featuring lingering dark fruit character and rounded tannins.” - Josh Raynolds
 

Yohan Lardy Moulin-A-Vent ‘Les Michelons’ 2016
 

$18.69 btl. | $98.75 ½ case ($16.46) reg. $22.00

 
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"If you bought it anywhere else, you probably paid more."
 
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